Wednesday, 28 March 2007

Our first exploration of the house












As we made our way to the village the sky became darker and there was a little light rain which made the whole exercise even more suspect. Who wants to view a house with the prospect of buying it, in the rain, particularly in France. Clearly, I said to myself," this is a waste of time" and we could have saved Francoise the trouble of spending a couple of hours with two mad English people who had no intention of buying the place.
After all we were just on holiday!
However, armed with my ancient camcorder, which did not like the low light conditions, or the rain come to that, we stepped inside the kitchen and began the exploration of the house.
We soon discovered that there was electricity, albeit in need of re-wiring, running water, if only of the cold variety, which supplied a tap over the concrete kitchen sink, with the drain taking the form of a pipe through the wall to discharge into the street; ( that still happens in some of the houses in the village) and the third most important item, a lavatory, fairly recently installed and which discharged into a "fosse septique".
This last feature was in the back hall behind the kitchen and was separated from the hallway by a wooden partition and a fairly primitive but sufficiently effective door. The doorway from the rear of this hall led in to the "garden", an overgrown piece of land with some "pig styes" and a chicken run, together with the inevitable lavatory at the bottom of the garden, which looked as if it had been used in the not too distant past. (Old habits die hard). The garden walls were in a very broken down condition and the rear entrance, of just about vehicular size, was closed off with a couple of sheets of bent and rusty corrugated iron.
We moved back into the house and looked at the two bedrooms on the first floor above the kitchen and hall. They were inter-connecting, but of adequate size, and one of them still contained an iron bedstead,complete with ill fitting mattress.
Leading from the bedroom was another more primitive staircase which led up to a large landing which was open to the roof, and another very large bedroom measuring about 7m x 5m.
The ceiling of this bedroom was lath and plaster, which had seen better days, and was collapsing on one side because of a leak in the roof at some time. There was a long wooden clothes hanger on the wall with about twelve wooden pegs which looked as if a community of monks had just vacated the premises, and for some unexplained reason this room has always been called "The blue bedroom", possibly because it had a muddy grey/blue door, which is still there! We gave all the rooms names in order to identify which part of the house we were discussing, which names have continued to this day, despite the many changes we have made.

There were two other doors on the landing. One led into another bedroom which was full of straw to about 5 feet in the middle, which inevitably became "The straw bedroom" and the other door which was opened with care by Francoise who cautioned us because there were no floors in that space which was open to the roof. In my mind I could imagine hanging a huge "mobile" or some other creative structure in that voluminous space, although how we could have reached to the roof timbers to fix it I had no idea.
We returned to the kitchen and needed to go into the street to view the next part of the building, and began to realize why Francoise had such a large bunch of keys.

Tuesday, 27 March 2007

The search begins


After the first few tentative searches in various windows I made a timorous approach to the secretary of one of the local Immobiliers, who fortunately spoke a little English and was pleased to give me details of the properties we had spotted. Armed with only the briefest of details (we soon discovered that Estate Agents in France were not particularly fulsome in their description of houses at that time) we went away to consider the possibility of making a purchase, and the die was cast.
A visit to one Agent was soon followed by a visit to the second, who also was most helpful and spoke rather better English.
Appointments were made, slotted in between visits, after all were were just on holiday, and in due course we were taken to view various properties.
We looked at a Presbytery in the village of St Orse only to be told the next day that the vendor had taken it off the market and was selling to a friend!
We were taken to a house next to a farm in the middle of the apple growing area. There was some question concerning the access, and the possibility of re-routing it to avoid the farm and approach the house from the other direction. This would involve negotiations with the farmer to purchase a strip of land on the other side of the house.
That together with the fact that being in the middle of orchards, my wife was concerned about crop spraying and other unforeseen hazards, meant that it too dropped off the list.
We visited another house/farm which was vacant and in the process of being restored, but which lay immediately alongside the main road, and didn't quite fit into our image of a French Idyll. Still needed a lot of work to complete, and make habitable.
The very large barn overlooking the river and facing a small Chateau on the other bank was tempting, but with no services connected and a huge amount of work to convert, it seemed too large a task to undertake.
After all we were just on holiday!
We were then introduced to another "house" by the second Agent who described it variously as "A Monastery" or "A Chateau", and which contained some huge and magnificent fireplaces. At this point we really were becoming seriously interested, but also, for me anyway, a little overwrought by this exercise. But it was Thursday, and if we were to follow up on this we needed to move quickly, and so an appointment was made for the Friday afternoon.
Being impatient and more than a little curious we drove to the village that evening to have a preview of the house, and soon found it without any difficulty. It was rather difficult to decide just how much of this enormous building was "for sale" and almost impossible to discover what the rooms inside would look like, if in fact there were any rooms. The most daunting aspect of the property however, was the height and condition of the roof. It clearly needed a lot of work, only one section had been recently repaired, and the whole exercise seemed totally impractical.

Friday morning was clear, but with gathering clouds. It was the last day of the holiday and we had planned to visit Brantome for the market and perhaps a visit to the Abbey. This delightful small town known as the Venice of the north, is perfect for a day out, with lunch in one of the many cafes along the river.
The appointment we had made to view the "chateau" seemed to me to be quite inappropriate, since my initial reaction on seeing it the night before had convinced me that it was too large and expensive an undertaking, and I was intent on cancelling it. My wife on the other hand was determined to see this interesting house, having made the arrangement, and so with some reluctance I drove back to Excideuil to keep our rendezvous.

Monday, 26 March 2007

Areas of Prehistory


The delightful small town of Montignac is close by the cave of Lascaux, which must be high on the list of any traveller in this region. Depending on the season, tickets for the Cave, set high on the hillside above the town, need to be purchased in advance, and tours in the various languages take place every hour or two, making the timing of visits slightly important.

The original cave, discovered some years ago by a group of small boys out with their dog, has been closed to all but the most important visitors and then only one small group each day, to prevent the damage being caused by ever increasing numbers of visitors. It is a great tribute to French engineering that they have reproduced, to the very fraction of a millimeter an exact replica of the original, and even taking the trouble to copy the paintings using the same pigments and "brushes" used thousands of years ago. The paintings are stunning, and the whole experience most memorable.

A day is quickly swallowed up by these excursions, but we also visited Les Eyzies and the Museum of Prehistory, and Le Thot, the reproduction of an ancient village with the flora and fauna which existed at that time, and a very fine audio visual presentation.
All these, and many more visits, were we able to make during the five days remaining of our holiday,including a visit to Bergerac, but somewhere along the line, about the Tuesday or Wednesday we began to idly look in the windows of various "Immobiliers" and could not help being attracted to the various properties for sale, particularly because of the price,.
It was at this point that our destiny took a dramatic change in direction which was to shape our lives from that time on.

Sunday, 25 March 2007

Five days of Discovery


O.K so its Monday morning and time to begin our journey of discovery into the many treasures of the Dordogne. Not in any chronological order, but to give you some idea of our itinerary, we visited the regional capitol Perigueux, and its fascinating Cathedral of St Front together with the Wednesday market, and the excellent Museum and fascinating small streets and squares close to the Cathedral.

Saturday, 24 March 2007

The colours of the Perigord



We were soon to discover that the Perigord region was split into various colours, originally to describe the landscape.Vert for the northern part with its rolling hills and valleys, Blanc for the central area where the landscape changes to the outcrops of limestone and dramatic cliffs. Noir for the area around Sarlat, Les Eyzies, with its National Museum of Prehistory, Beynac, and the troglodyte village of Roque St Christophe, where people have lived for 50,000 years. Then most recently they have introduced Perigord Poupre to denote the Bergerac wine growing area, to the south-west towards Bordeaux.
So here we are, in this region of prehistory, with so many ancient sites to visit. Caves and Chateaux, Plus beaux Villages de France, vinyards, and ancient cities. A bewildering choice to focus on for the seven days at our disposal.
Having travelled through France for a couple of days, visiting Chateaux, and following my "most direct" but tortuous route we were happy to stay around the farm for the Sunday, and as it happened we were to have a visit from some friends from Wales who were staying in the Charente and decided it would be a nice idea for them to visit us for lunch.The day was hot and sunny, the air was warm and full of good conversation, as the food and wine began to cast its spell. Altogether a splendid start to our holiday in the Dordogne. Even better when Madame spotted me early in the morning and enquired if we liked "haricot verte" and invited me to join her and gather a basket full.
But enough of this, we had places to go, visits to make, adventures to enjoy, and much to discover. At this point, I must emphasize, we were still enjoying an innocent holiday in France. The age of innocence was soon to pass!

Friday, 23 March 2007

Discovering the Dordogne


I did manage to make that telephone call. Have you ever felt compelled to use a French Telephone Box, with limited French, and no idea how much to feed into the machine. Anyway, I made it, was connected to "mine hostess", and explained that we were at Chalus and would be arriving in about an hour or so. I guess she could work out how long it would take to drive the distance. I have no idea what she said in reply but I felt pleased to have made contact and was convinced that she had understood me.
This level of optimism, that people have understood my French, has remained with me ever since, although there have been times when my confidence has lapsed, either because their eyes take on a glazed look, or they come back with a totally different response from the one I expected. "Eh bien, cest la vie".

We did eventually find the Gite and discovered to our delight that it was a working farm with an apartment over the garage, which was normally occupied by the daughter, an artist of some repute, who vacated her home for some months during the season, to generate some income.

It was spacious, with two bedrooms and very well equipped so we were soon encamped, and ready for our discovery of this much loved region of France.

France on the Backroads


What could be more delightful than to travel the open road in France on a sunny afternoon, with only the occasional tractor to overtake, and miles, sorry kilometres, of straight, well surfaced road. I was reminded of a previous visit following in the footsteps of a friend with whom we were going to rendezvous in the Italian lakes. He wrote me a card with brief directions, but was at pains to mention the numerous stretches of "Chaussee deformee" with the appropriate words of caution. Thank goodness those days have long since disappeared although the sign does pop up from time to time still, but the degree of Deformee is for the most part much less serious.
We were soon passing by the walls of the charming town of Richlieu, quoted as "the finest village in the universe". The Cardinal was not satisfied with that and decided it should become the capital of France, around 1630, however, there was no time to dally and I made a mental note to allow for a visit on a subsequent trip.
We skirted Chatellerault and drove through the lovely little town of Chauvigny, then on to Confolens and eventually arrived in Chalus, and the route of Richard, Coeur du Lion.
A word of advice at this point, if anyone is thinking of following this route I would advise against it. Although at the time it seemed to us to be ideal, needless to say, by this time we were considerably behind schedule and I was moved to try to make a telephone call to our hosts to warn them of our somewhat later than estimated time of arrival. What gave me the confidence to think I could negotiate the intricacies of a French Public Phone Box I do not know to this day, or that I would be able to adequately convey to Madame the essence of my message with my almost non-existent French, but more of that later.